EVENTFUL AND TURBULENT
HISTORY. Time has not consigned to oblivion the legends and
facts about old Melnik. Archaeologists claim that the Thracians
were the firs to settle in these parts. Later, the Romans passed
through it and left a unique trace: the ancient Roman bridge
preserved to this day. It is the Slavs, however, who are supposed
to have first given the town its present name - Melnik, after the
sand pyramids (mel) which envelop the town on all sides.
It became a part of the Bulgarian state under Khan Pressiyan
(836-852) and within a few centuries flourished greatly. In the
early 13th century Melnik was the capital city of the independent
domain of Lord Alexi Slav, an important and impregnable fortress
and a brisk centre of arts and crafts, of building and trade. It
continued to prosper under Tzar Ivan Assen (1218-1241). His
charter for duty-free trade with the Dubrovnik merchants brought
in together with exquisite goods and artisan skills also a
culture imbued with modern humanism.Melnik became a centre where
icon-painters, masters of ceramics, goldsmiths producing filigree
works, and masons who built churches and houses thrived.
The vicissitudes of history often
changed the rulers of this outlying part of the Bulgarian state.
Under Byzantine domination Melnik became the place where
claimants to the Byzantine throne were exiled. They arrived with
their families and riches, built houses and supported the
development of arts and trade.
The Ottoman conquest ushered in a
period of several centuries of oblivion and decline. Yet Melnik
again became famous. The spark of the Bulgarian National Revival
(18th - 19th century) burst earlier into flame here than in other
parts of the country. The town regained its past splendour. It
again became a major cultural and commercial centre. In the late
17th century it emerged as a centre of church decoration and
openwork woodcarving and some time later, as a centre of the fine
mural painting. Many churches and Bulgarian schools were opened.
Remarkable works of architecture were built; theatrical
performance, quadrilles and waltzes began to be played in the
parlours of eminent merchants, after Western fashions. Heavy
caravans spread the fame of Melnik wines in the distant corners
od Europe. It matured in deep cellars for several dozen years. It
acquired thickness and flavour which made it much sought after in
Salonica, Athens, Vienna, France, Spain and even in Britain.
Several months after the Russo-Turkish War (1877 - 1878) the
Berlin Treaty gave Melnik back to Turkey and the town lived
through the Kresna Uprising (1878). The town gradually lost its
sparkle, and during the Balkan war (1912 - 1913) which ultimately
freed it, it suffered devastation by fire.
Today Melnik is an architectural
reserve, a historical town, a monument of culture. From the
previously rich and prosperous town now remain what is left of
the fortress wall of Lord Slav, houses an wine cellars, churches
and monasteries. Amidst the exotic charm of the natural decor,
they remind one of a romantic tale of olden icons and carved
wood, of splendid frescoes and architectural gems.
THE NATURAL SCENERY of Melnik is
truly amazing. Impressive and austerely splendid, the Melnik
pyramids rank among the most remarkable natural phenomena in
Bulgaria. On the area of
17 sq. km (near Melnik, Rozhen i Kurlanovo) millennia-long
erosion has chiseled this unusual world. Depending on the
strength of your imagination, you could see in them obelisks,
ancient towers, giant mushrooms... etc. But the imagination
of the Bulgarian master masons of the National Revival period
inspired probably by the fascinating architectural style of the
Melnik house.
THE CHARM OF THE MELNIK HOUSE
Its characteristic features are
related to the geographic factor. The sheer screes and the
limited terrain compelled people here to fight for every square
foot of land. That is why the Melnik houses seem perched one
above the other, so close as though they are whispering something
to each other. Again, to cope with the slope, people here built
the basement of stone at several levels where the thick wine
matured. Above is the storey, towering
gracefully, projecting and supported by many cantilevers. The
white facades are framed with dark boards and the windows are
grouped several together in an elegant fashion. The
interiors usually exhibit ceilings of carved wood,
chimney-pieces, decorative cupboards of colour woods, murals and
even stained glass. But apart from the generally typical
features, every house here has an individuality of its own, its
own history and life.
THE FEUDAL LORD'S or BYZANTINE HOUSE
precedes the architecture of the Bulgarian National Revival by
several centuries. In fact it is among the earliest civilian
buildings in the Balkans and is described in Bulgarian and
foreign specialist literature. As legend has it, the castle was
built for Elena-Olena, a royal relative. The child was sent here
to find a cure for a serious lung ailment.
The favourable air here helped and she
recovered to marry the Russian Prince Igor. Archaeologists have
found in the building elements typical of mediaeval Bulgarian
construction and have listed it is a Bulgarian feudal fortress,
probably built in the 12th - 13th centuries. Today only the
Western and the Southern outer wall are preserved.
THE KORDOPOULOV HOUSE (1754) is a
veritable gem of Bulgarian architecture of the National Revival,
remarkably planned and executed. Its basement contains one of the
largest wine cellars in the town equipped with special canals and
ventilation.
And above, the house receives the day's light from
all four corners of the world. Also there are decorative murals
and stained Venetian glass, exquisite carved ceilings and
sumptuous Baroque decoration.
THE PASHA'S HOUSE was built in 1815 on the orders of the richest Turkish bey in the Seres and Melnik region, Ibrahim Bey. But it has reverberated to the steps of the Bulgarian revolutionary Yane Sandansky (1872-1915) who in 1912 proclaimed freedom to Melnik. The house is elegantly and impressively planned and executed with oriels and triangular surfaces on the roof. The wood-carved suns on the ceiling are the work of masters from the Debur school.
But the master-piece of the Debur school is the small internal icon stand in the church of the ROZHEN MONASTERY. The architecture of the monastery, is very impressive. It is only 6 km from Melnik in an easterly direction and has existed since the Second Bulgarian Kingdom in the Middle Ages. The church in its yard, built in 1600, was renewed and painted in the 18th century. It contains a wealth of splendid stained glass, openwork wood carvings and old icons. Part of them, together with the wood-carvings from the icon stand were exhibited in the Charpentier gallery, Paris and in the Huegel villa in the town of Essen.
In Melnik one can also see the old churches St. Nicholas (13th century), St. Nikolai, the Miracle Worker (1756), St. Peter and Paul (1840), St. Anton. The Melnik Hotel (3 stars) is in the style of the Melnik National Revival period and offers all facilities of up-to-date tourist services. In the restaurant and the tavern guests can sample dishes of the Bulgarian national cuisine and the famous natural Melnik wines. Also available to tourists are several restored old houses.
Back to Page "Bulgaria" or Back to Home Page
This page has been visited times.
Comments and additional
information to mmmitov@iname.com
Copyright © 1998 Martin Mitov